Freshly squeezed

March 16, 2008

It’s rapidly approaching the Easter holidays and as I’m currently thinking of ways to get away and things to do over this new festive period (notice that Easter is now the new Christmas - today I noticed they are selling Easter crackers(?) at the local superstore) I thought I’d write about our recent getaway for Mardi Gras/Carnevale. 

There are many famous carnivals in the world but while the venerable Venetians swan about in their fancy gowns and masks and while the Brazilians of Rio sexily samba their whatevers around in the almost altogether one small Italian town at the foot of the Alps goes to war and for three days the streets run with blood (well blood oranges actually - but that doesn’t sound quite as dramatic *pictures below).

The storico carnevale d’Ivrea - or historical Carnival of Ivrea’s highpoint is when the whole of the town takes to the street for the Orange Battles, the battles go on over three days.

Some background facts:

• Ivrea is about half-way between Turin and Aosta, in the North of Italy more or less at the foot of the Alps
• Carnival time ends on Shrove Tuesday/Mardi Gras so is 40 days or so before Easter every year.
• Over the course of the Carnival over 1/2 million oranges are thrown.
• Cold oranges thrown at force can be a little hurty

I have to say at this point that the Carnival is totally mad.  It’s absolutely crazy, and it’s amazing fun (so long as you keep dodging).

The way it works is that their are two teams each (each team has its own uniform) in the main town squares, their job is to defend their square.  Riding through the town in large carts are the attackers - they are heavily padded and wear strangely scary masks.  There are dozens of teams of attackers and they take it in turns to ride two at a time into each square and attack.

Below are some images I took at this year’s carnival which should give a bit of an idea of what its all about - click on any of the thumbnails should take you to a larger version of the image.

     

      

You might think it all looks a little dangerous - certainly it wouldn’t be allowed in the UK where the most dangerous thing you can now do in public is open a packet of Tofu - but you signify your status as a non-combattatant by wearing a red hat.  There are stalls all over the town selling every variety, and while you may look a little silly it stops you from being attacked (however if you are out in the streets without a red hat you are fair game to everyone so beware!!).

All of the squares are festooned with safety-nets so you can view the battles from relative safety.  Every year there are approx 100,000 visitors from all over the world.  The people of Ivrea are immensely helpful and friendly and offer a warm welcome to everyone.  I’ve visited this carnival on and off for the last 18 years and it just gets better year on year.  As well as the battles there are also parades, parties, and lots of general merrymaking.

So, if you are stuck for something to do next year and you aren’t cool enough for Venice or sexy enough for Rio but would like to do something a little different - maybe a spot of orange-dodging would fit the bill. 

If you’d like to know more about the carnival go to the official site.   Ryanair run cheap flights into Turin and from there it’s a coach, train via Turin, hire car, or taxi (approx 70 Euros) into Ivrea.

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